High Island Surf Cam, Ocean Rip Currents, Ocean Safety Sign

By far the highest incidence of death from the natural environment is due to surf- related accidents. Although forecasts about general wave conditions can be made, the size or timing of individual waves can never be predicted. All persons should be aware of the risks associated with water-related activities and use extreme caution when entering the ocean. All persons should be aware of, and heed ocean safety signs posted near many public beaches.

High Surf: Generated by storms or high winds over open ocean, and impacts the shore in "sets" of typically 3 to 5 waves. Any wave in a set can be significantly larger than its predecessor, and can take beachgoers by surprise. Those that frequent the shorelines must be vigilant in observing how wave action impacts the beach to ensure their safety. A good policy is to never turn your back on the ocean.

Rip Currents: Narrow, powerful currents of water that run perpendicular to the beach, out into the ocean. These currents may extend 200 to 2,500 feet (61 to 762 m) lengthwise, but are typically less than 30 feet (9 m) wide. Rip currents can move at a pretty good speed, often 5 miles per hour (8 kph) or faster. These currents are often called "riptides," but this is a misnomer, as they are unrelated to tidal fluctuations. Rip currents may also be referred to as "undertow," which is just as inaccurate. Undertow describes a current of water that pulls you down to the ocean bottom. Rip currents move along the surface of the water. Rip currents are caused by the shape of the shoreline itself, and usually occur where the ocean bottom is deepest. They may also occur suddenly and unexpectedly, as in the case of water breaking through a sand bar.

Depending on its severity, you may be able to see a rip current from the beach. Strong rip currents disrupt incoming waves and stir up sand from the ocean floor, creating a confused sea that very few swimmers can overcome. When at the beach, keep an eye out for narrow, muddy streaks in the ocean where there aren't any waves breaking, or where the waves break shorter and steeper than others.

If you get caught up in a rip current, it's crucial that you do not panic! Your first instinct may be to swim against the current, back to shallow waters. In most cases, even if you're a strong swimmer, this will only wear you out. The current is too strong to fight head-on.

Instead, swim sideways, parallel to the beach. This will get you out of the narrow outward current, so you can swim back in to the beach with the waves helping you along.

Coastal Flooding: Often occurs as a result of high surf or storm-related activity. Large, breaking waves can erode beaches, coastal roadways, and flood dwellings near the shoreline.

Rogue Waves: The most spectacular, and dangerous, example of combined wave crests is the phenomenon of "rogue" waves. Rogue waves are statistical probabilities that, on rare occasions, emerge to haunt some of the most trafficked sea lanes of the world. Rogue waves are solitary occurrences that rise to unusual height and mass. Ships at sea inevitably come into contact with some of these wind-generated, gravity propelled monsters. The islands of the Pacific occasionally have rogue waves impact their shores, which can be extremely dangerous to fishermen, Opihi pickers, and others who frequent the shorelines.

Exploring the probability of the occurrence of single large waves, Dr. Lawerence Drapler of the National Institute of Oceanography in England used the "Statistics of a Stationary Random Process" to show that one wave in 23 is over twice the height of the average wave; one in 1,175 is over three times the average height; and one in 300,000 is more than four times the average wave height.

High Surf