High Surf Is a Dangerous Natural Phenomenon

PDC Updates | Feb 2, 2010

Seen from a safe place, even the most menacing surf may be beautiful, but the waves can be dangerous, too. That is why the National Weather Service issues advisories and warnings about surf, just as they do about other threatening phenomena. This image of the famous Maui surf break, Jaws, shows a wave breaking at nearly 60-feet on December 7, 2009. (Photo by D. Baker via Hawaii State Civil Defense)

On December 22, 2009, the National Weather Service (NWS) issued a high-surf warning. The warning went into effect at noon on Tuesday, and it was initially set to expire at 6 a.m. Wednesday, conditions permitting.

The warning said, "Surf will rise to 20 to 25 feet along north and west facing shores of Niihau and Kauai late this afternoon. Surf will rise to 20 to 25 feet along north facing shores of Oahu, Molokai and Maui early this evening. Surf will rise to 15 to 20 feet along west facing shores of Oahu and Molokai this evening." Then, in a stand-alone paragraph, the NWS added, "Precautionary/preparedness actions." At the end, the warning explained itself: "A high surf warning indicates that dangerous, battering waves will pound the shoreline. This will result in very dangerous swimming conditions and deadly rip currents."

In fact, even when there is a high surf warning in effect, and despite warning signs posted along the coast in popular areas, beach lifeguards are kept busy by swimmers, surfers, body surfers, body boarders and, on especially hard-hitting days, even by sunbathers and people strolling in the edge of the water. The news reports on any day might include dozens of preventive actions and occasional rescues by lifeguards. On high surf days, even if the highest of the "high surf" is only six to eight feet, the lifeguards' work is still more demanding.

One such day, as an example, was June 9, 2009. There was no warning in effect. South shore surf, also called "town surf," was surf-worthy. Ocean Safety Lt. Bill Ingram described the situation to the Honolulu Star Bulletin: "It's very inviting to someone who's a beginner. They'll go out and say, 'It doesn't look that bad. It's four feet.' And then, as rogue-wave sets come in, they're six to eight, and they're a little overwhelmed by that." On Waikiki Beach alone, that one "not bad" day, one person had to be rescued, 40 people needed lifeguard assistance at a level lower than rescue, and 355 preventive actions were taken by ocean safety personnel. Again, that was one beach, on an easy day.

If you live in Hawaii or in any place that has beaches, learn about the dangers of ocean activities, particularly high surf. Once you know, you will be able to enjoy the sun, sand and waves, and you'll be ready if a companion needs a warning, a helping hand, or in the absence of a trained lifeguard, maybe even a rescue.

For additional, related information, refer to:

Start your self-education on the PDC website where you can learn what high surf is, read about how the swells in Hawaii create waves, and gain an understanding of high surf terminology.
Surf the web to find more information about high surf:
From the NWS Honolulu Forecast Office, you can navigate to any NWS website.
Read the Star Bulletin story mentioned in this PDC web article.
See what the ocean safety signs on Hawaii’s beaches look like and what they mean.
Locate and learn about lifeguarded beaches on Hawaii’s four largest islands.

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